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Do you mail order equipment? Yes we certainly do! We're always more than happy to take orders via email. Payment can be made by either credit card or direct debit (internet transfer). Upon clearance / receipt of payment you're issued with a receipt. Items are shipped via EMS and are trackable online and insured. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What's the best system I can get for XXXX dollars? We're constantly asked what the best systems are for various budgets. The short answer is that there is no right or wrong answer to this question. Everyones ears and tastes are different so the best thing to do is audition as many products as possible and chose based on what you like the most. Listed below are various product most commonly chosen. Some of these systems have wins the most or some of the competitions. There are a few things to remember: The prices do not include labour charges at all. The more complex and intricate your system design, the higher the labour costs will become. These systems may radically change depending on your own tastes. 12" subwoofers are used these lists. Subwoofer size choice may differ depending on your situation and desires. These are basic sound quality orientated systems and only utilise a source unit, front speakers, subwoofer and amplifier(s). Systems often get more intricate which can include surround sound decoders, equalisers, navigation systems, rear, center channel speakers and a vast arrayother items. Literally thousands of otions are available for audio / visual systems. $500 System Source Unit: Alpine CDE-9873 or CDE-9846E / Pioneer DEH-P2950MP / JVC KD-G635 or PDR-35 JVC / Calrion DXZ-356 Front Speakers:Alpine SPR-17S/ Pioneer TS-C160 / sony XS-HT170SN/infinity ref-6020 / DLS C6A Our Popular System for $500-$600 range is Pioneer JVC KD-G635 + REF-6020 + REF-6022i $1250 System Source Unit: Alpine CDA-9885 or 9883E / Pioneer DEH-P7950MP / Clarion DXZ-576 Front Speakers: Infinity kappa 60.7/ DLS-C6A / Pioneer TS-C160 Amplifier: Alpine MRP-M450 / HDT A600 / Infinity 7541a / Symbion Subwoofer: ALPINE SWS-1222D/ Infinity 1252w / HDT Cable: Stinger / Chord Company Deadening: Automat $2500 System Source Unit: Alpine CDA-9887 / Pioneer DEH-P9850BT / Clrion DXZ-956 Front Speaker: Alpine SPX-177R / DLS / Infinity Kappa 6.1 or 1.7cs Amplifier: Alpine MRV-F345 or F545 / HDT A600 + HDT 1.200/ Infinity 7541A + 611A Subwoofer: Alpine SWX / Infinity perfect DVQ / Precision Power Cable: Stinger / Chord Company Deadening: Automat $3200 MULTI MEDIA System Front Speaker: Alpine SPX-177R / RF T162S / Infinity Kappa 60.7CS or 1.7cs orPerfect 6.1Amplifier: Alpine MRV-F345 or F545 / HDT / Infinity 7541A + 611A Subwoofer: Alpine SWS-1222D / Infinity Perfect DVQ / Infinity REF-1252 Cable: Stinger / Chord Company Deadening: Automat -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Warranties and Australia Models? Waranties most of our items are covered by the relevant Manufacturer. Items that are imported directly by us are covered by a 12 month warranty by our company, or are backed by the relevant manufacturer, in the case of the second, we ship these at cost needed, on if the items are not repaired with in two weeks we, simply replace them from our stock FOC. Because Australia is such a small market compared to the rest of the world in nearly all electronic goods (.5-1%) manufacturer don't specifically make models for the Australian or New Zealand market, instead they do models for the OCEANIA region. A good example of this is ALPINE variants of which are American (no letter after the last digit), "J" - Japan, "E" - Oceania/ Asia, "R" & "Ri" - Europe. Say you were looking at the IVA or DVA range as the most affect our of any Brand is the DVD player, Pioneer , JVC, Pioneer etc. Though for this example we will take the IVA-D310 and it variants. The American Model with no letter after the last digit, is NTSC only and has completely different Black Box that accommodated the SAT radio options. With the other models "J", "E", "R and Ri" these are NTSC and PAL though will be limited to there respective regions. e.g UK "2", Australia "4", Japan "1" etc. Most DVD are upgradable either via Firmware or Error Codes. ALL OF OUR DVD PLAYER irrespective of MANUFACTURER are ALL ZONE (all regions) and NSTC / PAL. Another Common Myth that dealers will tell you is the RADIO FREQUENCIES, take again ALPINE, there are TWO setting within there HU and MultiMedia Players, ZONE "1" and "2", one is for the USA, the other what manufacturer call "EUROPE" which are the same setting for Australia and New Zealand. This again applies to most manufacturers. So why do the dealers tell you this... well you need to ask why they are charging you more than 25-40% above our prices.... the will probably say "OH you dont get a australian warranty ... blarr blarr blarr...." All our products are cover by a FULL 24 Month Warranty backed by our Company and/ or the Relevant Manufacturer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Why did my speaker blow? There are only two ways to destroy a speaker or crossover in the case of componenet / split system. 1) thermally, where the voice coil and/or the former melts because of too much heat, either by the way of too much current flowing through it or your amplifier clipping and hence impeding the cooling...this is why you should only by qualility AMPS ...like everything you get what you pay for,..... 2) physically, where the voice coil and former hit the back plate on the bottom of the speaker, simply tearing the surround and/or spider(s) or pop the cone or motor assembly from the frame, easy enough to understand.. primarily due to too much powerAudio systems when you hear the speakers 'distorting' it's not usually the speaker causing this but the amplifier. Speakers are quite simple devices, they simply reproduce whatever soundwave is given to them regardless of what it may sound like. Asking the amp to do it's job (by turning the volume up) it takes a comparatively small sound wave and amplifies it before sending the bigger (more powerful) signal to the speakers. If you ask the amp to produce more than it's capable of (by turning the volume up full blast) it will attempt to achieve what you have asked but the amplified sound wave becomes rough and distorted due to the amplifier reaching its power output threshold. After this the amplifier begins clipping the soundwave, the signal begins to sound 'distorted' or 'blurred'. NOW the speaker is running in dangerous territory and you risk destroying it Destroying your speakers with too much power, the only difference being that if you're running say a 100watt speaker with a 900watt amplifier, you'll get very little warning before the speaker starts to smoke. OVER POWER the SPEAKER and it is like ARNIE tearing it apart, ripping the motor structure and voice coil from the frame or hammering the motor into oblivion on the back plate of the speaker, overpower failures usually occur when the volume is somewhat louder than what is comfortable with before failure occurs. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Should I use a capacitor? Depends on the System, Capacitors are a storer of energy so if your system requires additional energy then YES! a Must for Most, if not all Mid-HIGH Range SYSTEMS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What is clipping? Underpowering the sub will easily damage it if you dont realise the amplifier is struggling, resulting damage is usually casued by the amplifier 'clipping' ... has your ALPINE AMP gone into STANDBY.... well this is usually the CAUSE!!! dont beleive everything you read on the packaging.... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- How much power can my new speakers handle? you'll already know that you're better off with too much power than not enough, however speakers can still be damaged by too much POWER All speakers have a rated power handling level and this comes in handy as a rough guide to know how much power to feed your speakers. Speaker's general power rating tells you how much A.C. power can be dissipated in the speaker's voice coil without damaging the speaker. Realistic the way to rate a speaker is to give the rating as continuous RMS watts. Many speakers are advertised as "350watt" or "100watt" speakers and you may be forgiven for thinking that the 350watt speakers are better and will play louder than the speakers rated at 100watts. Firstly you should realise is that speaker ratings are often exaggerated for marketing reasons. Check the RMS are the speaker ratings for continuous power. Peak vs RMS, peak power is 2*RMS power. If a speaker is actually capable of handling 350 watts of peak power it would only be rated to handle 175 watts RMS - (Check the SPR-17LS - 350watts on the BOX and 70 RMS on the Speaker.. do the MATHS!!...there AMPs are similar). If a speaker is rated to handle 70 watts 'music power' the speaker will take only very short bursts of power approaching 70 watts RMS. With two speakers from different manufacturers which have the same power ratings, one manufacturers may be more conservative in their ratings. The more conservatively rated speaker would be more likely to handle its rated power.(look at the Rockford and Infinity Gear - they are underrated.. you only need to look at the BC on the RF's to confirm) BOTTOM line is beware of power ratings on speakers. Knowing that some manufacturers are somewhat optimistic with their power ratings will help you to make better decisions. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Do I need the biggest amp possible? ANSWER depends on factors such as how loud you like to listen, what speakers you're using and your budget is. Remember we always say that the bigger the amplifier the better because the larger the amplifier, the less work it must perform to successfully drive the speakers. Larger amps keep their THD low, their efficiency and control level high and they stay cooler. It's better to have a larger amplifier doing minimal work than to wring the neck out of your smaller one. Remember though that too much power can also damage speakers so the gains MUST be set correctly. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- How loud will my speakers play? Look up the sensitivity rating of the speaker, which is expressed in dB/watt/meter. For example a speaker with a 89dB sensitivity will produce 89dB of sound 1 meter (39") from the speaker with a 1 watt input. For every doubling of power input the SPL (volume) increases by 3dB. So in this case, assuming a 100 watt power handling spec: Power input (watts) 1 watt = 89db @ 1 meter 2 watt = 92 4 watt = 95 8 watt = 98 16 watt = 101 32 watt = 104 64 watt = 107 128 watt = 110 Theoretically, the SPL limit of this speaker would be somewhere between 107dB and 110dB. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What brand of amplifier would you recommend? With thousands of amplifiers to choose from, Beware of "bargain" amps though as cheap amplifiers are exactly that and you'll often have problems not too long down the track. Too much power for too little money generally means that corners have been cut somewhere in quality of construction or service back-up. Aim for about $1.5-$3 per watt for quality. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What is the optimum enclosure for my new subwoofer? Most subwoofers come with recommended enclosure volumes. Sealed The relationship between the characterisitics of the sub and the volume of air inside the enclosure dictates the how it will sound. Bigger enclosures, the air spring limits cone motion less and allows the system to play lower and with flatter overall response (lower Qtc) at the expense of power handling. Go too large you compromise efficiency in order to gain the additional low frequency extension. For most subs a range of enclosure volumes that will produce high quality sound are various. Changing the enclosure volume within that range can fine-tune the sound Ported allows you tune a port to a certain frequency to achieve better bass response around that frequency. Tuning ports must be done using calculations which take into consideration, enclosure volume, resonance of the port and the Thiele / Small parameters of the sub. Using these attempting to delay the rear output wave of the speaker just enough so when it comes out of the port it is close to being in phase with the wave being produced by the front of the sub. You can see how, by altering the port length and diamter, tuninh the port to a certain frequency. Reasons that ported enclosures are generally considered louder you gain double the bass, or 3dB over a broad range of frequencies. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- How do I set my gains? Amplifier gain control is not a volume knob that determines the maximum volume. As long as the head units signal (which runs down the RCA cords) has sufficient power the amplifier is able to produce its maximum power output level. It's a matter of getting the full volume range of the head unit to match the full output range of the amplifier(s). "GAIN" controls do exactly that, also used to match other amplifiers in the system (in the case of a multi-amp system). Different Head Units have different maximum preamp output voltage. Some are capable of producing 9 volts on their preouts while others are only of 1.5 volts. Most head units will reach their maximum just before the volume control reaches the upper end of its range (usually at a point of 85-90% of its maximum range). Assuming your amplifier is the right power for the speakers (around the same as their rating), the proceedure of setting the gains is not overly difficult. First you set everything onto zero. All amplifier gains turned right down and all head unit boosters (like the loudness button) should be off. 1)Turn your deck up full volume, then back it off to about 85-90% (eg if your Alpine deck goes to 35, bring it up and then back off to 33-34) 2) on the amplifier, slowly bring the gain up until the distorting becomes audible. Once it's audible, turn it back ever so slightly and that is your gain set for that amp.REMEMBER if your amplifier output is much higher than your speakers rating (e.g. running 50 watt speakers with a 500 watt amplifier) the amp will destory the speakers before it begins to distort It can be difficult to set the gains when there is more power available than the speakers can handle. You have now insured the entire volume range of the head unit (e.g. 0-35 on Alpine head units) matches the entire volume range of the amplifier. In multiple gain / mulitple amplifier situations, usually recommend setting the midrange amplifier first as is it easiest to hear distortion through midranges (human ears are most sensitive to 1000-2000hz). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Do I really need sound deadening in my doors? Been to a movie cinema with carpet on the walls? - DEADING Sound emanates from both the front and rear of the cone. The front wave is heard by you. The rear wave is what the sound deadening and diffusers deals with. Simply put, doors are over glorified TIN CANS, echoing, reverberate. Causing bass to become blurred and muddy or at the worst, cancel itself. Adding sound deadening trying to stop the verberation, echoing inside the door which all effect the sound quality |
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AudioModif.com
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Surabaya
Telp : 031-3895098
Cabang :
Jl. Griyo Lidah Kulon 5
Perum. Permata Safira B1-2
Surabaya Barat
Telp : 031-7534692
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